Vayu Retreat Villas: A Raw and Refined Jungle Hideaway in Costa Rica
High up in the lush, mist-cloaked mountains of Costa Rica’s Puntarenas province, Vayu Retreat Villas is the sort of place you’d only ever hear about from someone in the know. With just four rooms, this adults-only escape feels more like a private jungle home than a hotel. It’s quiet, soulful, and unashamedly off the beaten path—designed for solo travellers and couples who want to unwind, unplug, and reconnect with nature without compromising on comfort.
There are no crowds, no polished resort ‘polish’. Instead, you get birdsong, butterflies, hammocks strung up between trees, and hosts (owners Marc and Rafael) who genuinely care. This boutique hotel has been lovingly created by them and their warmth and thoughtfulness shape every detail of your stay.
Barefoot Luxury in the Cloud Forest
Each of Vayu’s four rooms is cool, calm and considered with a terrace or balcony. Think soft stone floors, oversized rain showers, and beds layered in crisp, soft linen that makes afternoon naps a very real possibility. The interiors are understated, with stone walls and mood lighting, letting the wild beauty outside do all the talking. There’s fast Wi-Fi, should you need to dip into the outside world—but most guests are happy to leave their screens behind. Thankfully, there are no televisions, but Nespresso machines are standard on your balcony, and the coffee pods are replenished daily. Two of the rooms (1 and 2) have their own roof terrace with hammock and open-air showers.
Housekeeping is genuinely faultless—quiet, efficient and intuitive—so everything stays as fresh and flawless as the day you arrived. If you want to keep up with your yoga or weight training, there’s a simple open-air gym at the top of the hotel.
Designed for Rest, Rewilding and Real Connection
Vayu has that rare feeling of being entirely cut off and deeply connected all at once. You can sway in a hammock with a book, sip coffee as howler monkeys call in the distance, or let the day drift by with nothing on your agenda but a massage and a sunset swim. Anastasia, a phenomenal Russian holistic healer, offers deeply transformative treatments that go far beyond the usual spa fare—her work is intuitive, powerful and truly restorative - possibly the best treatment I have ever had. The infinity pool is deep and inviting and open 24 hours. There are no ‘shoulds’ or ‘shouldn’ts’ here - if you want to head out and explore there are plenty of trips and tours to choose from, but you may decide to just flop and stay by the pool.
The Call of the Coast
While Vayu is deep in the jungle, the beaches of Costa Rica’s South Pacific coast are within easy reach. It’s worth noting that not many of them have loungers and umbrellas. A 40-minute drive delivers you to some of the country’s most spectacular stretches of sand and if you want to learn to surf, this is the place to do it!
Playa Dominical – Bohemian, barefoot and brilliant for surfing or sundowners.
Playa Hermosa – True to its name, it’s quieter, slower and wonderfully scenic.
Playa Uvita – Home to the famous Whale’s Tail sandbar, best explored at low tide.
Playa Ventanas – A raw, secret spot with thunderous sea caves and dramatic beauty.
Nature Trails and Waterfall Dips
This corner of Costa Rica is rich with wildlife and natural wonders:
Marino Ballena National Park – Great for snorkelling, kayaking and spotting dolphins. Whale watching is a must if you’re here from July–October or December–March.
Nauyaca Waterfalls—These epic falls, Reachable by hike or horseback, offer a jungle swim you won’t forget.
Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge – Ideal for jungle trekking and birdwatching. Expect sloths, monkeys and toucans aplenty.
Simple Food, Done Beautifully
Meals at Vayu are full of heart. Dine al fresco or in the air-conditoned dining room. Chef Steven creates beautiful, unfussy plates using what’s local, fresh and in season. There’s zingy ceviche, garden herbs, grilled vegetables and seafood just hours out of the water. His tuna tartare is a standout—delicately balanced, on a bed of avocado and pear, full of flavour, and the perfect way to close the day and his linguine with prawns is perfection. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, go for the coconut flan or the pistachio tres leches… both utterly delicious!
Why stay? Small and cute with great service, the perfect introduction to Costa Rica
Highlight: the food, the service and finding Anastasia (angel sent from heaven)
How to get there? Four-hour drive or transfer (USD 200) from San Jose airport. Gatwick has a direct flight or you can fly from Heathrow via Madrid. PLEASE NOTE THAT IF FLYING IN TRANSIT THROUGH THE USA YOU WILL NEED AN ESTA WHICH CAN BE OBTAINED ONLINE FOR USD 21 AND CAN TAKE UP TO 72 HOURS - DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT LIKE I DID!!
Need to know: If you are intending to hike, the following are essentials as in non-negotiables:
Hiking or walking boots
Backpack
Water bottle
Don’t hike alone
Check the trail with someone who has done it to gauge the difficulty as some are very steep and difficult
Stayed: March 2025.