When to go to Rome

Rome is wonderful to visit any time of the year, the cheery hospitality of the Italians reigns year-round in this mesmerising city of culture, art, romance and shopping.

Roman summers are known to be particularly hot and yet the Eternal City still draws in culture vultures and shoppers who don’t mind the heat or see it as an opportunity to visit the city when it’s a little quieter. Don’t be fooled though, the queues to the main cultural attractions are still likely to be long and with social distancing measures in place, seemingly even longer. However, many places usually shut down during August when it’s virtually too hot to move or explore the city, though summer 2020 saw many places remaining open to catch up on sales lost during the pandemic.

Many of the luxury boutique hotels in Rome are more affordable in July and August than other times of the year. Rome has a 24hr bus network, as well as two metro lines and some trams making it easy to get around, but the best way to explore Rome is on foot.

Art, Culture and Museums

You’re in for a big surprise if you think you can do Rome in a day! Just as Rome wasn’t built in a day, neither can it be enjoyed in a day, let alone a week. As an introduction to the city, allow for a minimum 3-day stay. Rome is called the Eternal City due to the fact that it doesn’t matter how many times you visit you’ll never be able to discover all of the city’s secrets. Art-lovers are mesmerised by the many pieces of Renaissance art and sculpture around the city, shoppers can delight at the beautiful boutiques and culture-junkies are transfixed by the beauty of Rome and its ancient heritage, churches and museums.

There’s plenty to marvel at in Italy’s magnificent capital, from the Roman Colosseum (originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, commissioned in AD 72 by Emperor Vespasian) and St. Peter’s Basilica, to walking up the Spanish Steps and admiring the art in the many galleries. 

Art lovers with a penchant for the past should visit the Borghese Gallery, home to  works by Bernini, Titian and Caravaggio. If you prefer contemporary art Rome has another gallery hidden inside an old pasta factory that’s a treasure trove of contemporary artwork. The Pastificio Cerere  was transformed into a creative space in the 1970s and is now home to artist studios, ateliers and galleries as well as a photography school.

Just a short walk from the Colosseum is a charming secret of the city, the Church of San Clemente, which dates back to the 12th-century. Here you’ll not only stumble upon some stunning mosaics but go down a level and you’ll discover the real treasure; the remains of a church dating back to the 4th-century. Yet another layer down and you’ll find yourself in a Roman home from the first century, transformed into a Mithraeum, a place of worship for a secret ancient cult. It’s one of the most compelling reminders of the city’s impressive, complex and extensive history.

Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, designed by Michelangelo in the 16th-century, is another church with an interesting history. Built into a remnant of the ancient Baths of Diocletian, the largest in ancient Rome, the church gives you an idea of the scale of the baths which have since been engulfed by buildings, streets and piazzas. 

The Capitoline and Vatican Museums draw their share of culture-hungry visitors, but if you’re after a unique experience off the beaten track head to the Centrale Montemartini in Testaccio, an authentic, lesser-known Roman neighbourhood. This ancient sculpture museum is housed in a former power plant, with Greek & Roman statues and busts sitting next to defunct pieces of machinery.

The Sistine Chapel is one of Rome’s most visited and prized historic sites, many say it would be a travesty not to visit the famous frescoed ceiling painted by Michelangelo when in Rome. The Sistine Chapel is the large papal chapel built within the Vatican between 1477 and 1480 by Pope Sixtus IV (whom it was named after), and painted at the request of Pope Julius II. The Sistine Chapel is one of the greatest treasures of the Vatican City, of Rome and of the world in general.

 

Eating in Rome

The rule of thumb when eating in Rome is to stay clear of the bars and cafés which sit right on the main squares. They’re overpriced, can be tacky and the amenities are often lacking in hygiene and cleanliness, though post pandemic it’s hard to imagine this will still be the case. Cappuccinos are enjoyed up until midday after which you’ll be frowned upon if you ask for any kind of coffee with milk. It’s worth noting that some of the luxury hotels in Rome, especially the larger brands, have great restaurants and coffee spots providing the perfect pit-stop for weary legs.

Food in Rome isn’t all about pizza and pasta, though you’ll find some of Italy’s best in the Eternal City, especially when it comes to carbonara (the real recipe is made only with guanciale, egg, lashings of Pecorino and black pepper – no cream or mushrooms!). Seasonal specialties include fried artichokes, a delicious Roman delicacy and fried courgette flowers stuffed with anchovies and mozzarella which pack a punch.

Cesare al Casaletto, on Via Casaletto, off the well-trodden tourist path, serves some of the best fritti misti in the city. Or family-run Nonna Betta in the old Jewish ghetto is famous for its fried artichokes.

Rome’s most famous restaurant is Dal Bolognese on Piazza del Popolo. It’s more famous for the people who eat here, actors, politicians and footballers than the food itself which can be rather average. If you do plan to come here, then booking is absolutely essential. Any good hotel concierge should be able to get you a table if you can’t get one yourself.

Piazza del Popolo, 1, 00187 Roma RM, Italy - +39 06 322 2799

Popular with both Roman residents and visitors da Francesco is a lively, relaxed restaurant, just a 3-minute walk from Piazza Navona. Simple, tasty pasta dishes and thin and crispy pizzas. If there's a queue, join it. It's where all the locals eat and is very reasonably priced.

Piazza del Fico, 29, 00186 Roma RM, Italy – Tel: +39 06 686 4009

Ristorante Nino is a dark-panelled restaurant serving traditional Tuscan dishes, plus wines & oils from the owner's estate. There’s also some outside street seating with umbrellas.

Via Borgognona, 11, 00187 Roma RM, Italy – Tel: +39 06 678 6752

Refined and intricate dining at its best can be found at La Pergola, one of Rome’s best restaurants. A contemporary affair La Pergola is the only restaurant to hold three of the coveted Michelin stars.

 Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101, 00136 Roma RM, Italy – Tel: +39 06 3509 2152

SLEEP

It’s difficult to imagine wanting to sleep in such a beautiful and culture-rich city as Rome, but if you must, do it in style. There are plenty of luxury 5-star hotels, boutique hotels and small luxury hotels in Rome, it really comes down to budget, style and location. J.K. Place Roma (above) is an iconic 5-star boutique hotel a short walk from the Spanish Steps. Small with 30 rooms, it’s one of the best hotels in Rome. The food is delicious with authentic dishes conjured up by a Sicilian chef.  For a larger, luxury hotel try Preferred Hotel Parco dei Principi Grand Hotel & Spa. This award-winning luxury hotel is in a wonderful location near the Villa Borghese Park and from here you can take a short walk to the Barcaccia Fountain and the Spanish Steps. For a modern iteration of a late 19th-century palace, Palazzo Naiadi, The Dedica Anthology, part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection is a 5-star haven in Piazza della Repubblica that captures the alluring essence of the Eternal City with the Colosseum, the Pantheon and Trevi Fountain all nearby.

For my top 4 boutique hotels in Rome ready my article here.